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Foodways, Missionaries, and Culinary Accommodation in the Mariana Islands (1668–74)
Journal of Jesuit Studies Pub Date : 2022-01-18 , DOI: 10.1163/22141332-09020007
Verónica Peña Filiu 1
Affiliation  

AbstractThe Jesuits played a vital role in the diffusion of crops, animals, agricultural practices, and eating manners throughout the early modern world. In the Mariana Islands (western Pacific), the arrival of the first missionaries in 1668 entailed the introduction of new foods and food-related material culture deemed necessary to establish a self-sufficient mission. However, during the first six years of the mission (1668–74), the resistance and opposition of the native inhabitants—the CHamoru people—to the Jesuits’ activities, the unreliability of maritime trade routes, the conflicts that arose inside the Society of Jesus, and the tensions between the Jesuits and the Spanish colonial authorities affected missionaries’ expectations regarding diet and cuisine. This article explores the strategies that the Jesuit missionaries followed to adjust their foodways to the social and physical environment of the Mariana Islands and pays attention to the process whereby local foods were adopted. In that sense, it argues that culinary accommodation—or “gastronomic accommodation” as defined by Cristina Osswald—was both a common practice to overcome the lack of Iberian resources and a political strategy to ease tensions and forge alliances with the indigenous population.

中文翻译:

马里亚纳群岛的美食、传教士和烹饪住宿 (1668–74)

摘要耶稣会士在早期现代世界的农作物、动物、农业实践和饮食方式的传播中发挥了至关重要的作用。在马里亚纳群岛(西太平洋),1668 年第一批传教士的到来带来了新的食物和与食物相关的物质文化,这些文化被认为是建立自给自足的使命所必需的。然而,在传教的前六年(1668-74 年),当地居民——查莫鲁人——对耶稣会的活动、海上贸易路线的不可靠以及在协会内部产生的冲突的抵抗和反对耶稣,以及耶稣会士和西班牙殖民当局之间的紧张关系影响了传教士对饮食和美食的期望。本文探讨了耶稣会传教士为适应马里亚纳群岛的社会和自然环境而采取的饮食策略,并关注采用当地食物的过程。从这个意义上说,它认为烹饪住宿——或克里斯蒂娜·奥斯瓦尔德(Cristina Osswald)定义的“美食住宿”——既是克服伊比利亚资源缺乏的普遍做法,也是缓解紧张局势和与土著居民结盟的政治战略。
更新日期:2022-01-18
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