Several important studies of New York City's fiscal crisis of the 1970s identify the city's deindustrialization as a key component. The flight of manufacturers from New York fostered a racialized unemployment crisis while eroding the city's tax base, undermining its ability to meet increasing demands for social services, creating incentives for policymakers to focus on real estate development as the motor of the city's political economy, and weakening the institutions, especially labor unions, that had served as bulwarks of the city's unique (by American standards) brand of municipal social democracy.

This article explores the roots of deindustrialization in one of New York City's most important industries, the manufacture of clothing. Capital flight, in the form of “runaway shops,” began as early as the teens, when the International Ladies' Garment Workers Union (ILG) established itself through a series of key battles. The handmaiden to runaway shops was the reemergence of contracting, whereby the assembly of garments was disaggregated in terms of time, space, and legal identity.

The twin forces of contracting and runaways threatened the existence of the ILG by draining garment work out of its New York City stronghold. I trace efforts to combat it through their culmination in what I call the “New Deal settlement,” a stabilization of the industry across what contemporary analysts called the “New York Production Area.” This settlement, I argue, was at once geographical, political, cultural, and economic. Its goal was to limit competition and establish a new equilibrium in the garment industry, one that could permit manufacturers acceptable profits without resort to the sweatshop. I borrow the notion of a “regulating capital” from the economist Anwar Shaikh to describe these attempts to engineer a reproducible cost structure.

As soon as the New Deal settlement emerged, manufacturers began working to collapse it. I trace the dispersion of garment work to places like northeastern Pennsylvania, where manufacturers enlisted the wives and daughters of unemployed anthracite miners to sew their garments. Factory owners, sometimes linked to organized crime, sought to establish a new regulating capital rooted in relationships of domination, protected by authoritarian local governments. When imported garments arrived in the 1950s, a new regulating capital rooted in a worldwide sweatshop economy forced manufacturers to leave Pennsylvania for the US South, the Caribbean, and beyond. In an attempt to link political economy with social history, I stress that the currency of regulating capitals, particularly in labor-intensive industries, is political domination.

Throughout, I illustrate these processes with reference to Judy Bond, the blousemaker whose departure for the US South prompted a widely publicized but unsuccessful national boycott led by the ILG. In terms of the historiography of New York City's deindustrialization, this account offers an alternative emphasis to that of Robert Fitch, whose influential account emphasized “a conscious policy” to deindustrialize the city, overseen by the real estate industry. Instead, I show how deindustrialization was rooted in significant ways in the dynamics of competition themselves, shaped at each stage by particular social relationships, state policy, and world politics.

关于 20 世纪 70 年代纽约市财政危机的几项重要研究都将纽约市的去工业化视为一个关键组成部分。制造商逃离纽约引发了一场种族化的失业危机，同时侵蚀了该市的税基，削弱了其满足日益增长的社会服务需求的能力，激励决策者专注于房地产开发作为该市政治经济的发动机，削弱了作为该市独特（按照美国标准）城市社会民主品牌堡垒的机构，特别是工会。

本文探讨了纽约市最重要的行业之一——服装制造——去工业化的根源。以“逃亡商店”形式出现的资本外逃早在十几岁的时候就开始了，当时国际妇女服装工人联盟（ILG）通过一系列关键战役建立了自己的地位。失控商店的女仆是合同的重新出现，根据合同，服装的组装在时间、空间和法律身份方面被分解。

承包和逃亡的双重力量威胁着 ILG 的生存，他们将服装生产从其纽约市的据点中抽走。我追溯了抗击这一问题的努力，最终导致了我所说的“新政解决方案”，即当代分析师所谓的“纽约生产区”的行业稳定。我认为，这种定居点同时具有地理、政治、文化和经济方面的意义。其目标是限制竞争并在服装行业建立一种新的平衡，使制造商能够获得可接受的利润，而无需诉诸血汗工厂。我借用了经济学家安瓦尔·谢赫（Anwar Shaikh）的“调节资本”概念来描述这些设计可复制成本结构的尝试。

新政和解方案一出现，制造商就开始努力瓦解它。我将服装工作的分散追溯到宾夕法尼亚州东北部等地，那里的制造商招募失业的无烟煤矿工的妻子和女儿来缝制服装。有时与有组织犯罪有关的工厂主试图建立一种植根于统治关系、受到专制地方政府保护的新的监管资本。当进口服装在 20 世纪 50 年代到来时，植根于全球血汗工厂经济的新监管资本迫使制造商离开宾夕法尼亚州，前往美国南部、加勒比海地区及其他地区。为了将政治经济学与社会历史联系起来，我强调，调节资本，特别是劳动密集型产业的资本，是政治统治。

在整个过程中，我都以朱迪·邦德（Judy Bond）为例来说明这些过程，这位女衬衫裁缝前往美国南部，引发了一场由 ILG 领导的广泛宣传但不成功的全国抵制活动。就纽约市去工业化的史学而言，这篇报道提供了与罗伯特·菲奇不同的侧重点，后者颇具影响力的报道强调了由房地产行业监督的“有意识的政策”，以实现城市去工业化。相反，我展示了去工业化如何在很大程度上植根于竞争动态本身，并在每个阶段受到特定社会关系、国家政策和世界政治的影响。