Purpose

To make individualized men's basic upper garment patterns without sleeves, the authors developed a measuring garment that measures necessary body dimensions and angles all together. Additionally, the authors proposed a method for making individualized basic body block patterns using the obtained dimensions and angles.

Design/methodology/approach

The authors decided on the locations of the dimensions of the body required for making the individualized garments. The authors then sewed multiple stretchable capacitance sensors to corresponding locations on a stretchable T-shirt. To obtain the dimensions with sensors of short length, the authors indirectly obtained each length from the relationship between the actual body length and the capacitance of the sensor. Beforehand, the authors obtained linear-approximation equations for the relationship between actual body dimensions and the capacitance of sensors for five participants and a dummy. The authors then used the measuring garment and the equations to obtain the body dimensions of another six participants. The authors compared the obtained and actual body dimensions to verify the equations. The authors made individualized upper-garment patterns without sleeves and garments for the 11 participants with the obtained dimensions and angles. The authors verified the proposed method in wearing tests comparing garments designed using the proposed method with conventionally designed garments.

Findings

Using the measuring garment, the authors obtained body dimensions close to actual body dimensions. A pattern of the individualized basic upper garment using the obtained dimensions and angles could be drawn. Compared with the conventional patterns, the individualized patterns had notable differences in the locations of the shoulder point and side neck point and directions of the shoulder line, which relate to the shoulder shape (i.e. square, sloping, forward, or backward). In wearing tests, all participants declared that the individualized garment better fitted their shoulders than the conventional garment without tightness around the shoulders, neck, and armpits. The proposed method with the developed measuring garment was thus found to be effective in designing individualized garments.

Originality/value

This paper presents the possibility of not only measuring body dimensions but also designing individualized basic upper garments using the proposed measuring garment. The proposed measuring garment will assist the efficient manufacture of individualized upper garments without a three-dimensional scanner or special skills.

中文翻译：

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使用包含可拉伸电容传感器的测量服装制作个性化的男士基本身体块图案

目的

为了制作个性化的男士无袖基本上衣图案，作者开发了一种测量服装，可以同时测量必要的身体尺寸和角度。此外，作者提出了一种使用获得的尺寸和角度制作个性化基本身体块图案的方法。

设计/方法论/途径

作者决定了制作个性化服装所需的身体尺寸的位置。然后，作者将多个可拉伸电容传感器缝在可拉伸 T 恤上的相应位置。为了获得短长度传感器的尺寸，作者根据实际人体长度与传感器电容之间的关系间接获得了每个长度。事先，作者获得了五个参与者和一个假人的实际身体尺寸与传感器电容之间关系的线性近似方程。然后，作者使用测量服装和方程来获得另外六名参与者的身体尺寸。作者将获得的身体尺寸与实际身体尺寸进行了比较，以验证方程。作者根据获得的尺寸和角度，为 11 名参与者制作了个性化的无袖和服装上衣图案。作者在穿着测试中验证了所提出的方法，并将使用该方法设计的服装与传统设计的服装进行比较。

发现

使用测量服装，作者获得了接近实际身体尺寸的身体尺寸。使用所获得的尺寸和角度可以绘制个性化基本上衣的图案。与传统图案相比，个性化图案在肩点和侧颈点的位置以及肩线的方向上有显着差异，这与肩部形状（即方形、倾斜、向前或向后）有关。在穿着测试中，所有参与者都表示，个性化服装比传统服装更贴合他们的肩膀，肩膀、颈部和腋窝周围没有紧绷感。因此，发现所提出的使用开发的测量服装的方法对于设计个性化服装是有效的。

原创性/价值

本文提出了不仅可以测量身体尺寸，还可以使用所提出的测量服装设计个性化的基本上衣。所提出的测量服装将有助于高效制造个性化上衣，而无需三维扫描仪或特殊技能。