The objective of the research was to evaluate the effect of mordants on colour variation, textile characteristics, colour fastness, and Fourier‐transform infrared (FTIR) bands in alpaca fibre dyed with tankar stem extract. The white alpaca fibre was obtained from the company Inka Tops S.A. The mordants used were: alum (KAl(SO4)2·12H2O) at 20% and iron(II) sulphate (FeSO4) at 3%. Prior to dyeing, a pre‐mordanting process was carried out (86°C for 30 min), and dyeing was performed through thermal treatment at 70 and 86°C (30 and 60 min). The CIELab [L*, a*, b*, chroma (C*) and hue (h°)] coordinates and reflectance were evaluated using a spectrometer; textile characteristics were assessed with OFDA (optical fibre diameter analyser) 2000; chemical bands were analysed with an FTIR‐attenuated total reflectance (ATR) spectrophotometer, and colour fastness (light, washing, and rubbing) was evaluated using international American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC) standards. The results showed that luminosity (L*) significantly decreased after dyeing and pre‐mordanting with KAl(SO4)2·12H2O (81.47) and FeSO4 (70.47). Additionally, the b* value and C* value significantly increased at higher temperature and longer dyeing time, resulting in slightly different shades and hues in each treatment. The coefficient of variation (CV) and curvature index (CU) presented significant differences, with CU increasing at 86°C/60 min with FeSO4. Colour fastness to washing and rubbing showed acceptable values on the greyscale. In conclusion, the mordants used had a significant effect on colour variation, textile characteristics, colour fastness, and FTIR spectrum. The most intense shades were observed in fibres pre‐mordanted with FeSO4 (dull yellow‐green) and in dyeing without mordant (yellow).

中文翻译：

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媒染剂对从罐卡茎（Berberis boliviana L.）提取的染料染色的羊驼纤维颜色变化的影响

该研究的目的是评估媒染剂对用坦克干提取物染色的羊驼纤维颜色变化、纺织品特性、色牢度和傅里叶变换红外 (FTIR) 波段的影响。白色羊驼毛纤维购自 Inka Tops SA 公司。使用的媒染剂为：明矾 (KAl(SO4）2·12小时2O) 20% 和硫酸铁 (II) (FeSO4）为3%。染色之前，进行预媒染过程（86℃，30分钟），并通过70和86℃热处理（30和60分钟）进行染色。CIE 实验室 [L*,A*,乙*，色度（C*）和色调（h°）]坐标和反射率使用分光计进行评估；使用 OFDA（光纤直径分析仪）2000 评估纺织品特性；使用 FTIR 衰减全反射 (ATR) 分光光度计分析化学谱带，并使用国际美国纺织化学家和染色师协会 (AATCC) 标准评估色牢度（耐光、耐洗和耐摩擦）。结果表明，光度（L*) 用 KAl(SO) 染色和预媒染后显着降低4）2·12小时2O (81.47) 和 FeSO4（70.47）。此外，乙* 值和C* 在较高温度和较长染色时间下值显着增加，导致每次处理的色调和色调略有不同。变异系数 (CV) 和曲率指数 (CU) 呈现显着差异，随着 FeSO4 在 86°C/60 分钟的温度下 CU 增加4。灰阶上的耐洗和耐摩擦色牢度显示出可接受的值。总之，所使用的媒染剂对颜色变化、纺织品特性、色牢度和 FTIR 光谱有显着影响。在用 FeSO 预媒染的纤维中观察到最强烈的色调4（暗黄绿色）和无媒染剂染色（黄色）。