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Upcycling with Material Debris: Nurturing the Creative Process through Responsible Handling of Waste Materials Fashion Theory Pub Date : 2024-03-20 Rachael Cassar
By default, upcycling as a fashion methodology of deconstructing, re-assembling and removing material elements from existing garments, always produces material waste. This waste, with which one wou...
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Fabrics of Memory Fashion Theory Pub Date : 2024-03-19 Emma Windsor- Liscombe
This article seeks to further examination of clothing with respect to associated experience and memory. The focus is the historical and personal narrative of one sweater worn by a young Canadian, L...
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“The Good Italian”: Fashion Films as Lifestyle Manifestos. A Study Based on Thematic Analysis and Digital Analytics Fashion Theory Pub Date : 2024-03-14 Alice Noris, Lorenzo Cantoni
The continuous intertwining of cinema and digital technologies has allowed fashion films to spread as a new genre, through which fashion companies present their products, entertain, inspire their a...
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“I Do What I Do to Drive Change”: The Social-Symbolic Work of Sustainable Fashion Influencers Fashion Theory Pub Date : 2024-03-11 Ines Kaivonen, Nina Mesiranta, Elina Närvänen
This paper aims to study how sustainable fashion influencers (SFIs) conduct social-symbolic work in their efforts to purposefully transform their followers’ fashion consumption patterns. We conduct...
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Revitalizing Meisen Kimono in Chichibu through Storytelling—Craft, Community, and Sense-Making Fashion Theory Pub Date : 2024-03-11 Saskia Thoelen
Japan’s kimono has seen a gradual revitalization since the 2000s. Especially the renewed interest in antique and meisen kimono has been of major importance. Responding to this, meisen creators in C...
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Letter from the Editors Fashion Theory Pub Date : 2024-03-11 Valerie Steele, Peter McNeil
Published in Fashion Theory (Vol. 27, No. 7, 2023)
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Dressed in Time: A World View Fashion Theory Pub Date : 2024-03-04 Dr Madeleine C. Seys
Published in Fashion Theory (Ahead of Print, 2024)
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Fashion Activism of Extinction Rebellion and Fashion Act Now Fashion Theory Pub Date : 2024-02-23 Katrina Sark, Sara Arnold
This article examines the fashion activism of Extinction Rebellion (XR) through a comparative analysis of literature, media, and interviews with activists. We argue that their decentralized organiz...
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“Sobriété, Chic, Discrétion”: Promoting Modern Jewelry and Accessories in Adam: La revue de l’homme, 1925-1940 Fashion Theory Pub Date : 2024-02-21 Simon Bliss
This paper discusses the promotion of modern jewelry and accessories in interwar France using the men’s fashion magazine Adam: la revue de l’homme as a case study. It focuses on a number of the mag...
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Yorkshire Fashion Archive Fashion Theory Pub Date : 2024-02-01 Elaine Evans, Kevin Almond
Published in Fashion Theory (Ahead of Print, 2024)
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Instruments of Embodiment: Costuming in Contemporary Dance Fashion Theory Pub Date : 2024-01-31 Tamara Tomić-Vajagić
Published in Fashion Theory (Ahead of Print, 2024)
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Fashion and Feeling: The Affective Politics of Dress Fashion Theory Pub Date : 2024-02-01 Todd Robinson
Published in Fashion Theory (Ahead of Print, 2024)
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Letter from the Editors Fashion Theory Pub Date : 2024-01-18 Valerie Steele, Peter McNeil
Published in Fashion Theory (Vol. 27, No. 6, 2023)
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Time to treat the climate and nature crisis as one indivisible global health emergency Fashion Theory Pub Date : 2024-01-18 Kamran Abbasi, Parveen Ali, Virginia Barbour, Thomas Benfield, Kirsten Bibbins-Domingo, Gregory E. Erhabor, Stephen Hancocks, Richard Horton, Laurie Laybourn-Langton, Robert Mash, Peush Sahni, Wadeia Mohammad Sharief, Paul Yonga, Chris Zielinski
Published in Fashion Theory (Vol. 27, No. 6, 2023)
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Food and Fashion Fashion Theory Pub Date : 2024-01-08 Anya Kurennaya
Published in Fashion Theory (Ahead of Print, 2024)
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Influencers, Niche Magazines and Journalistic Practice in Italy: Toward a New Fashion Editorial System Fashion Theory Pub Date : 2023-11-22 Marco Pedroni, Emanuela Mora
This essay considers fashion influencers, niche magazines, and the mainstream editorial system as heterogeneous expressions of the fashion editorial system (FES). It investigates the relationships ...
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Reviving the Silenced; Defining Vegan Fashion and Classifying Materials of Animal Origin Fashion Theory Pub Date : 2023-11-08 Rachel Lamarche-Beauchesne
The ongoing growth of clothing, footwear, and accessories marketed as vegan requires the development of a usable definition for the segment, as well as a review of the classification system which h...
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Letter from the Editors Fashion Theory Pub Date : 2023-10-26 Valerie Steele, Peter McNeil
Published in Fashion Theory (Vol. 27, No. 5, 2023)
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Beauty Regimes. A History of Power and Modern Empire in the Philippines, 1898–1941 Fashion Theory Pub Date : 2023-10-18 Mina Roces
Published in Fashion Theory (Vol. 27, No. 7, 2023)
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Gay Men’s Style: Fashion, Dress and Sexuality in the 21st Century Fashion Theory Pub Date : 2023-10-12 Jay McCauley Bowstead
Published in Fashion Theory (Vol. 27, No. 7, 2023)
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¡Moda Hoy! Latin American and Latinx Fashion Design Today Fashion Theory Pub Date : 2023-10-02 Edward Salazar Celis
Published in Fashion Theory (Ahead of Print, 2023)
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Africa Fashion Fashion Theory Pub Date : 2023-09-28 Rachel Lifter
Published in Fashion Theory (Ahead of Print, 2023)
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Letter from the Editors Fashion Theory Pub Date : 2023-09-05 Valerie Steele, Peter McNeil
Published in Fashion Theory (Vol. 27, No. 4, 2023)
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Sur les routes de Samarcande. Merveilles de soie et d’or (On the Routes of Samarkand. Marvels of Silk and of Gold) Fashion Theory Pub Date : 2023-08-22 Lacey Minot
Published in Fashion Theory (Vol. 27, No. 7, 2023)
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Object Lives and Global Histories in Northern North America: Material Culture in Motion, C. 1780-1980 Fashion Theory Pub Date : 2023-08-22 Mark O’Connell
Published in Fashion Theory (Vol. 27, No. 6, 2023)
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Des cheveux et des poils Fashion Theory Pub Date : 2023-08-09 Nigel Lezama
Published in Fashion Theory (Vol. 27, No. 7, 2023)
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Cripping Masculinities: Designing Fashion Utopias Fashion Theory Pub Date : 2023-08-09 Robin J. Chantree
Published in Fashion Theory (Vol. 27, No. 6, 2023)
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The Worth Question: Addendum to ‘Exhibition Review: Victoria G. Karelias Collection of Greek Traditional Costumes’ Fashion Theory Pub Date : 2023-08-03 Linda Welters, Eleni Papathoma
Published in Fashion Theory (Vol. 27, No. 5, 2023)
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Textile Orientalisms: Cashmere and Paisley Shawls in British Literature and Culture Fashion Theory Pub Date : 2023-07-24 Tarini Bhamburkar
Published in Fashion Theory (Vol. 27, No. 5, 2023)
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Letter from the Editors Fashion Theory Pub Date : 2023-07-05 Valerie Steele, Peter McNeil
Published in Fashion Theory (Vol. 27, No. 3, 2023)
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“Well-Dressed” in Suits of Australian Wool: The Global Fiber Wars and Masculine Material Literacy, 1950–1965 Fashion Theory Pub Date : 2023-06-30 Melissa Bellanta, Lorinda Cramer
The global explosion of synthetic fibers in the mid-twentieth century challenged Australia’s wool industry, demanding new ways of marketing the natural fiber to compete with these so-called modern ...
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The Peacock Revolution: Men’s Fashion from 1966 to 1970 Fashion Theory Pub Date : 2023-06-22 Reviewed by Joshua M. Bluteau
Published in Fashion Theory (Vol. 27, No. 5, 2023)
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Zampatti Powerhouse Fashion Theory Pub Date : 2023-06-09 Timo Rissanen
Published in Fashion Theory (Vol. 27, No. 5, 2023)
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“Shocking!” the Surreal World of Elsa Schiaparelli Fashion Theory Pub Date : 2023-06-05 Fiona Dieffenbacher
Published in Fashion Theory (Vol. 27, No. 6, 2023)
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Picasso/Chanel Fashion Theory Pub Date : 2023-05-18 Jessica Hemmings
Published in Fashion Theory (Vol. 27, No. 4, 2023)
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Clothing Inside: Addressing American Prisons Fashion Theory Pub Date : 2023-05-15 Alla Eizenberg
Published in Fashion Theory (Vol. 27, No. 4, 2023)
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Letter from the Editors Fashion Theory Pub Date : 2023-05-02 Valerie Steele, Peter McNeil
Published in Fashion Theory (Vol. 27, No. 2, 2023)
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Chest-Binding Practices for Trans and Nonbinary Individuals within Different Spatiotemporalities: Redefining the Meanings of Space, Place, and Time Fashion Theory Pub Date : 2023-04-11 Kelly L. Reddy-Best, Andrew Reilly, Kyra Streck, Denise Green, Kristen Morris, Kelsie Doty
Styling-fashioning-dressing, which involves embodied and material articulations of style, is one way that trans and nonbinary individuals negotiate, produce, and perform their gender identities. Ch...
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Letter from the Editors Fashion Theory Pub Date : 2023-03-09 Valerie Steele, Peter McNeil
Published in Fashion Theory (Vol. 27, No. 1, 2023)
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Follow Fashion: Patrick Kelly, Derrick Adams & AfroQueer Commutation Fashion Theory Pub Date : 2023-03-01 Lyndon K. Gill
Conceptually polyamorous and resolute in its genre bending, this article weaves together fashion, visual art, and reflexivity. The warp and weft of the resulting Afroqueer tapestry are iconic fashi...
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The 2022 Venice Biennale: The Milk of Dreams Fashion Theory Pub Date : 2023-02-27 Renée Robinson
Published in Fashion Theory (Vol. 27, No. 3, 2023)
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From Secondhand to Invisible Hand: Methods of Manipulating Object Biographies on The Realreal Online Marketplace Fashion Theory Pub Date : 2023-02-16 Liroy Choufan, Nir Tila-Cohen
This article analyzes the methods employed to ensure the conservation of the value of goods sold on The RealReal online marketplace, a new-generation secondhand fashion reseller associated with the...
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Aesthetic Labor in Religious Contexts: Women Encountering Modest Dress in the Workplace in the UK and Saudi Arabia Fashion Theory Pub Date : 2023-02-02 Reina Lewis, Kristin Aune
This article explores how UK women encounter religious dress and behavior codes in religious work contexts. It compares two very different case studies: women working at faith-based organizations i...
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Garmenting: Costume as Contemporary Art Fashion Theory Pub Date : 2023-01-31 Sarah Parrish
Published in Fashion Theory (Vol. 27, No. 2, 2023)
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Navigating Stigma through Refashioning Islamic Veiling: Muslim Women’s Sartorial De-Stigmatization Strategies in Contemporary United States Fashion Theory Pub Date : 2023-01-30 Didem Unal
This article examines Muslim women’s de-stigmatization strategies in everyday urban interactions in contemporary United States with a focus on their sartorial choices geared toward navigating stigm...
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Lasting Bonds: Understanding Wearer-Clothing Relationships through Interpersonal Love-Theory Fashion Theory Pub Date : 2023-01-26 Ana Neto, João Ferreira
To tackle the high rates of textile waste in the fashion industry through design, it is imperative to understand what makes people keep and wear their clothes for longer. In this paper, we present ...
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Letter from the Editor Fashion Theory Pub Date : 2023-01-17 Valerie Steele
Published in Fashion Theory (Vol. 26, No. 7, 2022)
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Artful Decoloniality: The Politics of Fashion as Art in 20th and 21st Century Vietnam Fashion Theory Pub Date : 2023-01-09 Martina Thucnhi Nguyen, Ann Marie Leshkowich
Abstract Drawing on two case studies of designers whose work centered on the Vietnamese aó dài, one from the 1930s and the other the 2010s–2020s, this article considers how desires to construe fashion as art and the designer as fine artist have been implicated in transnational circuits of symbolic and material value, as well as colonial and postcolonial power relations. While decolonial scholarship
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Material Lives: Women Makers and Consumer Culture in the 18th Century Fashion Theory Pub Date : 2022-12-16 Kate Strasdin
Published in Fashion Theory (Vol. 27, No. 2, 2023)
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Samlingen Fashion Theory Pub Date : 2022-12-16 Johanna Zanon
Published in Fashion Theory (Vol. 27, No. 3, 2023)
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Fashion|Sense: On Philosophy and Fashion Fashion Theory Pub Date : 2022-11-30 Jeffrey DeShell
Published in Fashion Theory (Vol. 27, No. 2, 2023)
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Elvis: Direct from Graceland Fashion Theory Pub Date : 2022-11-11 Paola Di Trocchio
Published in Fashion Theory (Vol. 27, No. 2, 2023)
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Letter from the Editor Fashion Theory Pub Date : 2022-11-09 Valerie Steele
Published in Fashion Theory (Vol. 26, No. 6, 2022)
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Undercover—From Necessity to Luxury: The Evolution of Face Coverings during COVID-19 Fashion Theory Pub Date : 2022-10-25 Joshua M. Bluteau
Published in Fashion Theory (Vol. 27, No. 1, 2023)
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New Luxury Ideologies: A Shift From Building Cultural to Social Capital Fashion Theory Pub Date : 2022-10-17 Emily Huggard, Patrick Lonergan, Anja Overdiek
Abstract This paper helps academics and practitioners understand the shift from traditional to new ideologies in luxury fashion. By tracing the workings of traditional luxury ideologies and unpacking the impact of digital and social media, the article explains why social capital has become a primary resource for brands and a core constituent of new luxury ideologies. It also unveils three traits of
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British Dandies: Engendering Scandal and Fashioning a Nation Fashion Theory Pub Date : 2022-10-13 Katharina Herold-Zanker
Published in Fashion Theory (Vol. 27, No. 1, 2023)
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The Moral Dilemma in Fashion: Using the Prisoner’s Dilemma Game on Animals and the Environment Fashion Theory Pub Date : 2022-09-12 Yeong-Hyeon Choi, Saram Han
Abstract This study aims to determine the optimal solution to the dilemma that arises from vegan fashion materials by identifying current vegan or cruelty-free fashion brands that advocate “animal-friendly” and revealing how animal ethics should be expressed so that consumers more effectively accept it. This research applies the “prisoner’s dilemma,” which is a situation that is often used in game
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Ceci n’est pas un chapeau: What is Art, and What is Fashion in Degas’s Millinery Series? Fashion Theory Pub Date : 2022-09-12 Naomi Lubrich
Abstract In the past decade, Edgar Degas’s milliner series (1876–1910) received new attention thanks to a youtube video by the Art Institute of Chicago and a joint exhibition in Saint Louis and San Francisco. A consensus has formed to interpret the works, which show milliners and customers contemplating hats, as artistic self-reflection, with the milliners standing for artists and the hats for artworks
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Carnivalesque Practices and Cyborg Esthetics: A Study of the Grotesque of Demna Fashion Theory Pub Date : 2022-09-07 Eleonora Dal Bosco
Abstract Since the first appearance with his brand Vetements at the Paris Fashion Week in 2014 and his successive takeover of the French maison Balenciaga in 2015, designer Demna has represented a controversial figure in the industry, capable of merging stereotypically luxurious pieces with direct references to pop culture and politics. This article analyses the imagery and the communication strategies
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Print & Paint, 350 Years of Flowers on Cotton Fashion Theory Pub Date : 2022-08-26 Tirza Westland
Published in Fashion Theory (Vol. 27, No. 1, 2023)