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Performing Reparative Craft: Oreet Ashery’s Passing through Metal TEXTILE Pub Date : 2024-02-20 Natasha Eves
Passing through Metal (2017–18), a performance by queer interdisciplinary artist Oreet Ashery, is the focus of this paper. Featuring the enigmatic intervention of a death metal band into a collecti...
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The Lives behind the Luxurious Threads: Beleaguered Sustainability of Kashmir’s Pashmina Artisans TEXTILE Pub Date : 2023-12-11 Taskeen Bhat, Shobana Mathews
Kashmir pashmina, sometimes referred to as
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The Fabric of Our Lives: Reflections From Maria Balshaw TEXTILE Pub Date : 2023-11-27 Maria Balshaw
Published in TEXTILE: Cloth and Culture (Ahead of Print, 2023)
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Textiles: Tracing Our Presence TEXTILE Pub Date : 2023-11-27 Uthra Rajgopal
An introduction and reflection on the selected papers at the 2021 Textile and Place Conference. Written by Uthra Rajgopal, Independent Curator, during her Curatorial Residency at the Shrujan Living...
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Designing Dua Negeri (Two Countries) Batik Influenced by Indonesia and Thailand Shared Culture to Enrich the Batik Repertoire in Both Countries TEXTILE Pub Date : 2023-11-13 Sandy Rismantojo, Veerawat Sirivesmas, Eakachat Joneurairatana
The study aimed to explore knowledge about the shared culture between Thailand and Indonesia, the story of Garuda and batik traditions, and develop a new cultural product that represents the two cu...
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Made Done and Mended: Textiles Salvaged, Saved and Sewn TEXTILE Pub Date : 2023-10-25 Stephanie Richards
Published in TEXTILE: Cloth and Culture (Ahead of Print, 2023)
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Stormy Weather: Textile Art, Water and Climate Emergency TEXTILE Pub Date : 2023-08-24 Fionna Barber, Jools Gilson
Abstract This paper entwines the voices of art historian Dr. Fionna Barber and Artist Scholar Prof. Jools Gilson to propose the critical importance of textile art in contemporary debates about the climate emergency. Framed in collaborative counterpoint to previous work on femininity and water (notably Neimanis Citation2012Neimanis, Astrida. 2012. “Hydrofeminism: Or, on Becoming a Body of Water.” In
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Maker to Wearer: A Transfer of Intention TEXTILE Pub Date : 2023-08-24 Hye Eun Kim
Abstract Following up from a previous article on the possibility of materializing intention through the design and production of a “knot dress,” this study confirms that the maker’s intention can be transferred to, and actively perceived by, the garment’s wearer. The interviews and related documentary on wearing the knot dress show that an unusual piece of clothing induces movements and behaviors in
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Re/Assembling the Imaginary: Counter-Narratives of Haiti’s Transnational Textile Industry TEXTILE Pub Date : 2023-08-24 Charlotte Hammond
Abstract Since the 1970s, Haiti’s zòn franch (dislocated sites where garments are assembled and processed for export to the North), have reconstructed bonds of coloniality through structural violence. Despite over two hundred years of Haitian independence from French colonial rule, and over 80 years since the US occupation of Haiti, these “ports,” exempt from tax and duties, are often viewed locally
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Braiding the Identity of the Zenú People: Territory and Nature-Culture Relationships in the Crafting of the Vueltiao Hat TEXTILE Pub Date : 2023-08-24 Sandra Milena Babativa Chirivi, Rosa Inés Babilonia Ballesteros, Darío Pérez
Abstract The traditional manufacture of the vueltiao hat is a symbol of identity in the Colombian Caribbean. In recent decades, it has become a symbol and primary source of income for numerous indigenous Zenú families in Tuchín (Córdoba-Colombia). In this study, through qualitative methods, we document narratives around the vueltiao hat supply chain. As a result, we describe the current practices surrounding
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Protecting “Paradise”: Anti-Nuclear Textiles in New Zealand TEXTILE Pub Date : 2023-08-24 Jane Groufsky
Abstract The defining feature of the nuclear-free movement in New Zealand was people power: a groundswell of popular support which achieved a major change in government policy and became a turning point in our national identity. Creative expression was crucial to building visibility for the cause. By looking at the textiles produced at this time, we can both read the history of the movement and understand
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Ob-La-Di, Oc-to-Pus (Life Goes on): a Modern Métis Fire Bag (2021) TEXTILE Pub Date : 2023-08-17 Danielle Lussier
Abstract The author, a Red River Métis beadwork artist and researcher, offers a brief introduction to the history and purpose of octopus/fire bags, a traditional Métis garment. She explores both her experience of reclaiming the garment design following disruption of intergenerational knowledge transfer as a result of colonialism, and details textile and garment construction processes. Reflecting on
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Knit is a Four-Letter Word TEXTILE Pub Date : 2023-08-17 Martha Glazzard, Claire Adholla, Tonya Kim Dewey-Findell
Abstract This paper explores the language of knit as a key influence on its status as an artform and craft. The basic nature of the language used in knitting is so commonplace, so entrenched in our language at large, that it leads to distinct associations with everydayness that knit can struggle to overcome, often leading knit to be considered “only” a simple craft. We find that the skills needed for
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Western Minimalism in Design: Oriental Roots and Cultural Borrowings TEXTILE Pub Date : 2023-08-01 Weirong Wang, Fan Wang
Abstract The research is a theoretical analysis of the relationships between minimalism in Western and Eastern design. The research purpose is to identify the influence of oriental minimalist design on the development of design in the West. The scientific value of the research is the comparative analysis of Eastern and Western minimalist design that may be of interest to teachers and students learning
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Phad: The Scoping Review of Ritualistic, Performative Audio-Visual Folk Tradition of Rajasthan TEXTILE Pub Date : 2023-07-05 Saurav Sharma, Udaya Kumar Dharmalingam, Sougata Karmaka
Abstract Phad Tradition as a part of visual culture is a performative, ritualistic, audio-visual folk craft of Rajasthan, India. Its cult following is based on its regional Gods, such as Papuji and Devnarayan Ji. Phad Tradition can be broadly divided into three aspects as narratives (tales, myths), paintings (visual), and performance (audio). Phad Paintings has a unique visual language that is painted
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Yarn over Police Brutality: Race and the Occupation of Rochester City Hall’s Steps during the Daniel Prude Protest TEXTILE Pub Date : 2023-06-19 Hinda Mandell
Abstract This reflection describes what happened when 40 women, predominantly white and from suburban and rural areas of residence, gathered on the Rochester City Hall steps in September 2020, in New York State, following the Rochester Police Department killing of Daniel Prude, a Black man having a mental-health episode in March 2020. The white yarn activists engaged in quiet craft activism, allied
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Introduction: Creativity in Knitted Textiles in Historical Context TEXTILE Pub Date : 2023-06-19 Lynn Abrams, Roslyn Chapman, Lin Gardner, Marina Moskowitz, Sally Tuckett
This Introduction frames a curated collection of articles on creativity in the knitwear sector, interrogating some of the ways in which creativity has been inspired, supported and manifested, from ...
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Body, Dress, and Symbolic Capital: Multifaceted Presentation of PUGREE in Colonial Governance of British India TEXTILE Pub Date : 2023-05-18 Sumit Kanti Ghosh
Abstract The association of colonial power with turban has not been made since the beginning of British rule in India. This link has been developed through various setbacks. The Britishers’ perceptions about the dress of the native employees was not as same in the 1880s–90s as it was in the 1800s. As the time progressed, the body-politics related to colonizer’s sartorial manners in India matured. By
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This Long Thread: Women of Color on Craft, Community, and Connection, TEXTILE Pub Date : 2023-05-18 Dana Williams-Johnson
Published in TEXTILE: Cloth and Culture (Ahead of Print, 2023)
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Stranded Iconographies: The Journeys of Tapestries from Rorke’s Drift, 1965 TEXTILE Pub Date : 2023-04-26 Philippa Hobbs
South African institutions were slow to acquire artworks by black women. When they did, among the first were tapestries from a Swedish art center at Rorke’s Drift in rural South Africa. However, it...
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Magdalena Abakanowicz: Every Tangle of Thread and Rope, London, UK: Tate Modern, 17 November 2022 to 21 May 2023 TEXTILE Pub Date : 2023-04-20 Janis Jefferies
Published in TEXTILE: Cloth and Culture (Vol. 22, No. 1, 2024)
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Textile Garden, July 15–October 30, 2022, Museum für Gestaltung, Ausstellungsstrasse, Zürich TEXTILE Pub Date : 2023-04-20 Janis Jefferies
Published in TEXTILE: Cloth and Culture (Vol. 22, No. 1, 2024)
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A Designer’s Perspective on a Creative Era in Knitwear Design: British Fashion Knitwear 1970–1990 TEXTILE Pub Date : 2023-04-05 Sandy Black
The image of knitting has waxed and waned throughout its history across the UK, being historically associated with women’s domestic work. Nevertheless, hand knitting has demonstrated periods of gre...
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Ten Perspectives of the Gáppte: Materializing Different Ways of Being Sámi TEXTILE Pub Date : 2023-03-28 Anna Gustafsson
Drawing on ethnographic fieldwork among the Lulesámi, a subgroup of the indigenous Sámi of northern Fennoscandia, this article explores the relationship between indigenous identity and dress. The g...
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Textile Memories TEXTILE Pub Date : 2023-03-20 Jessica Hemmings
Published in TEXTILE: Cloth and Culture (Vol. 22, No. 1, 2024)
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İmren Erşen Oya Müzesi TEXTILE Pub Date : 2023-03-15 Sanem Odabasi
Published in TEXTILE: Cloth and Culture (Vol. 22, No. 1, 2024)
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Weaving as a Livelihood Option: A Study of the Bhulia Weaver Community in Odisha, India TEXTILE Pub Date : 2023-03-15 Ansuman Das, Tattwamasi Paltasingh
The cultural tradition of Indian textile craft is diverse and deep. Weaving is a technique for making textiles. Using both qualitative and quantitative methods, the research was carried out in a ha...
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From Underwear to Outerwear: The Influence of Machinery on Creativity and Garment Styling in the Scottish Knitwear Industry, 1920s–1970s TEXTILE Pub Date : 2023-03-15 Lin Gardner
Although machine knitted garments are ubiquitous today, they have only been manufactured for little over a century. The growing popularity of knitted outerwear and the demand for readymade clothing...
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Dinh Q Lê, Photographing the Thread of Memory TEXTILE Pub Date : 2023-03-15 Magali An Berthon
Published in TEXTILE: Cloth and Culture (Vol. 22, No. 1, 2024)
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Annet Couwenberg: Sewing Circles, TEXTILE Pub Date : 2023-03-09 Kate Nartker
Published in TEXTILE: Cloth and Culture (Vol. 22, No. 1, 2024)
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The “Authenticity Discourse” in Contemporary Application of West African Textiles TEXTILE Pub Date : 2023-03-09 Richard Acquaye, Akosua Mawuse Amankwah, Raphael Kanyire Seidu
This study provides a contextual discussion and re-thinking of the concept of authenticity of West African Textile designs with the changing nature of art and design practices. It further discusses...
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The 4th Hangzhou Triennial of Fiber Art TEXTILE Pub Date : 2023-03-09 Jia Xu
Published in TEXTILE: Cloth and Culture (Vol. 22, No. 1, 2024)
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Consumption Pattern and the Factors of the Handloom Weavers in Charghat Upazila of Rajshahi District in Bangladesh TEXTILE Pub Date : 2023-03-09 Md Ataul Gani Osmani, Md Fahad Al Ashik
This study investigates production culture and consumption pattern of handloom weavers in Charghat Upazila of Rajshahi District in Bangladesh and also finds the factors affecting their consumption ...
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Razzle, Dazzle and the Black Fantastic TEXTILE Pub Date : 2023-03-07 Janis Jefferies
Published in TEXTILE: Cloth and Culture (Vol. 22, No. 1, 2024)
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Styling the “Ivy” Man: Jewish Men as Creators and Consumers of an American Style, 1940–1965 TEXTILE Pub Date : 2023-03-06 Josef Nothmann
Abstract Studies of Jewish “Americanization” have largely focused on earlier periods of immigration and emphasized the democratic nature of dress in the United States. In contrast, this study analyzes the decades at mid-century when Jews began visibly to enter the American mainstream and argues for an increased appreciation of male sartorial distinction as cultural capital in Jewish social mobility
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Knitwork: Creativity and the Manufacture of British Designer Knitwear in the 1980s TEXTILE Pub Date : 2023-02-22 Jade Halbert
This article deals with the production of hand-knitted fashionable clothing in the British knitwear sector during the so-called designer boom of the 1980s. Drawing on a variety of sources including...
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Weaving Webs of Protection: Gringsing Textiles TEXTILE Pub Date : 2023-02-13 Nyoman Dewi Pebryani, Melissa Vogel
This article discusses the meaning and significance of Gringsing textiles for people of Tenganan Pegringsingan village specifically, and for people in Bali more generally. People in this village tr...
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Received, in Shadows and Silence TEXTILE Pub Date : 2023-02-07 Anuradha Chatterjee
Published in TEXTILE: Cloth and Culture (Vol. 22, No. 1, 2024)
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Pliable Logic as a Practice-Led Research Methodology for Textile Practice TEXTILE Pub Date : 2023-02-07 Tsai-Chun Huang
In this paper, the researcher would like to propose a novel research methodology based on pleating action and how pleats are formulated, herein named “pliable logic.” It provides a recursive and ma...
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Creativity and Design in a Contemporary Knitwear Business: An Interview with Di Gilpin and Sheila Greenwell TEXTILE Pub Date : 2023-01-24 Lynn Abrams
Published in TEXTILE: Cloth and Culture (Vol. 21, No. 4, 2023)
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Jewish Dress through Visual Sources: An Introduction TEXTILE Pub Date : 2022-12-19 Svenja Bethke, Gil Pasternak
Abstract This introduction to the special issue “Jewish Dress Through Visual Sources” prompts engagement with visual sources to expand research into the role of dress in the history of perceived minority groups. Drawing on the example of the Jewish people as one of the longest-lasting oppressed groups in history, the text opens by discussing some of the ways in which dress has played a primary role
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Patterns and Programs: Replication and Creativity in the Place-Based Knitting of Shetland and Ireland TEXTILE Pub Date : 2022-12-19 Siún Carden
Styles of knitwear associated with places, such as Shetland’s “fair isle” and Ireland’s “aran” knitting, are viewed through the lens of “tradition” by many consumers and makers. The creative proces...
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Jewish Women, English Dress: From Kindertransport to Women in Uniform in Wartime England TEXTILE Pub Date : 2022-12-08 Jeordy Farnell
Abstract The study of dress in relation to Jewish identity in England is critically understudied. Historic anxieties concerning the presence of Jews in England impacted the lives of many, refugees seeking asylum from fascist Europe in particular. Images from the snapshot collection of Lorraine Sulzbacher, a German Jewish refugee, are correlated with oral history testimonies from other Kindertransport
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Lederhosen, Dirndl, and a Sense of Belonging: Jews and Trachten in Pre-1938 Austria TEXTILE Pub Date : 2022-12-08 Jonathan C. Kaplan
Abstract In June 1938, only four months after the Anschluss [the Nazi annexation of Austria], the Nazi administration in Salzburg region announced a ban on Jews and other non-Aryans dressing in local Volkstrachten [folk costumes]. This “Trachtenverbot” highlighted specific forbidden garments and anyone in breach of the rules was subject to a fine of 133 marks or a period of two weeks imprisonment.
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Modern Confections: Jews, New Women, and the Business of Fashion in Imperial Berlin TEXTILE Pub Date : 2022-12-08 Angelina Palmén
Abstract This article analyzes a series of visually arresting albums by the Jewish-owned Berlin department store and clothing manufacturer Kaufhaus N. Israel, published between 1899 and 1914. The company wooed and shocked bourgeois audiences by photographically illustrating the gender norm-defying activities of early twentieth-century “new women”—over a decade before the equivalent German term became
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Jewish Beauty Pageants in Interwar Poland: Entertainment, Beauty Ideal, and National Emotions TEXTILE Pub Date : 2022-12-08 Emma Zohar
Abstract In 1929, the Polish-Jewish newspaper “Nasz Przegląd” announced “Miss Judaea Contest” – Beauty Pageant exclusively for Jewish ladies. In the following year, the Yiddish newspaper “Unzer Express” launched an additional similar contest. This article focuses on two elements related to the Jewish Beauty Pageants in Interwar Poland: First, by using quantitative research methods, it reveals the esthetics
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The Afterlife of Early Modern Images of Jews TEXTILE Pub Date : 2022-12-08 Cornelia Aust
Abstract Early modern copperplate engravers, painters, and printers produced an increasing number of images that depicted Jewish individuals or more often groups of Jewish men and women. Many of these images sought to present an ideal type, displaying (allegedly) typical Jewish dress and outward appearance. Some of these images saw adaptations already during the eighteenth-century, but all were photographed
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Photographs of Jewish Clothing in Nazi Germany and the Shoah: Visual Records of Economic Assaults, Exploitation, and Plunder TEXTILE Pub Date : 2022-12-06 Nathaniel Parker Weston
Abstract Pictures of Jewish clothing allow viewers to witness the centrality of clothes in Nazi persecution and expropriation both before and during the genocide of Jewish Europeans. The photographs serve as documentary records and vehicles for seeing specific situations in which buying, selling, producing, wearing, and stealing clothes was part of everyday life in Nazi Germany, occupied Europe, and
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The Processing of Used Clothing as a Survival Strategy: The Łódź Ghetto Textile Industry in Official Visual Documents of the Judenrat TEXTILE Pub Date : 2022-12-06 Paweł Michna
Abstract This article analyzes a photomontage album produced in the Graphics Office of the Łódź (Litzmannstadt) ghetto under Nazi occupation. Commissioned by the Jewish Council, the Judenrat, in a modern style, the album shows the functioning of the ghetto’s textile production. The article argues that the album was a visual expression of the Judenrat’s survival strategy: it was aimed at perpetuating
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On Not Looking Jewish: Visualizing Submerged Memories and Appearances TEXTILE Pub Date : 2022-12-02 Annebella Pollen, Barbara Loftus
Abstract For more than 25 years, artist Barbara Loftus, born 1946, has developed a substantial body of work, across figurative painting, book works and creative documentary film, rooted in her experience as a second-generation Holocaust survivor. Loftus’s mother, Hildegard Basch [1917–2007], was born into an assimilated middle-class Jewish family but the securities of her comfortable life in Berlin
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Dressing Up: “Reading” Costume in the Photograph Albums of Nineteenth-Century Bourgeois Jews TEXTILE Pub Date : 2022-12-02 Michele Klein
Abstract This study draws on over one hundred portrait albums compiled by bourgeois Jews living in the British, Austrian, German, Russian and Ottoman Empires, as well as those living in France, Italy, Belgium, the Netherlands, Denmark, Sweden and Poland in the second half of the nineteenth century. These photographic albums allow us to study Jewish dress. They show Jews who presented themselves at
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Exhibition Review TEXTILE Pub Date : 2022-11-28 Emily Levick
Published in TEXTILE: Cloth and Culture (Vol. 22, No. 1, 2024)
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Textile Weaving (Aṣọ-Òkè) at Ologbin-Adewole Northern Yorubaland, Nigeria TEXTILE Pub Date : 2022-11-25 Abdulmalik Abdulrahman Abdulmalik, Kingsley Chinedu Daraojimba
This research investigates traditional textile weaving among the people of Ologbin-Adewole in Ilorin, Nigeria. This traditional craft is one of the ancient crafts that gave Ologbin-Adewole recognit...
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Eva Obodo’s Recent Works: Tied, Twisted Textiles and Social Life in Nigeria TEXTILE Pub Date : 2022-11-18 Chukwuemeka Nwigwe
Published in TEXTILE: Cloth and Culture (Vol. 22, No. 1, 2024)
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Knitting Algorithmic Assemblages TEXTILE Pub Date : 2022-11-14 Kate Geck
Abstract This paper aims to explore knitting as a metaphor for raveling and unraveling the emerging relationships within assemblages of human and machine intelligences. Centered on a practice- based investigation into the generation of knitting machine punchcards through the use of machine learning models, the project reveals the co-creative capacities and implications of such assemblages. Knitting
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Exhibition Review TEXTILE Pub Date : 2022-11-14 Susan Snodgrass
Published in TEXTILE: Cloth and Culture (Vol. 22, No. 1, 2024)
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Knitting Close to the Edge TEXTILE Pub Date : 2022-11-12 Jools Gilson
Abstract This visual essay focuses on hand knitting, environment and activism through examples from The Knitting Map (2005) in Cork, Ireland, Romy Owens’ Unbearable Absence of Landscapes (2015) in Tulsa, Oklahoma and The Tempestry Project’s National Parks Project (2016), across the US. The essay re-imagines the knotting of knitting as political dissent through a focus on edges and edginess. Such edges
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Knitting: The Destructive Yarn-Bomb TEXTILE Pub Date : 2022-11-11 Eleanor O’Neill
Abstract This paper explores the effect of yarn-bombing on the cultural value of knitting. While it has been suggested that such acts of craftivism may help to broaden the public view of knitting, beyond its oft perceived limitations of the domestic and the feminine, I argue the opposite. For yarn-bombing to be the effective tool of political activism it is so often intended to be, it is necessary
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Will There Be Womanly Times? Reflections on the Work of Ellen Lesperance TEXTILE Pub Date : 2022-11-09 Mhari McMullan
Abstract This article investigates textiles as translation and tribute through the work of artist Ellen Lesperance. Focusing on her body of work about the Greenham Common Women’s Peace Camp, exploring themes of activism, feminism and knitting. Drawing from photographs and archival footage, Lesperance faithfully recreates the patterns, symbols and colors of knitwear worn by women in the camp through
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Exhibition Review TEXTILE Pub Date : 2022-11-01 Susan Snodgrass
Published in TEXTILE: Cloth and Culture (Vol. 22, No. 1, 2024)